Savoring the Soul of Spain: An Expat’s Culinary Expedition in Bilbao
From the canal-laden streets of Amsterdam, my home for the past year, I felt an itch to venture further south. The plan? Dive deep into the rich tapestry of Spain’s Basque Country. Bilbao was calling, and I answered.
First Impressions
As my plane began its descent into Bilbao, I couldn’t help but notice the drastic change in landscape from the flatlands of the Netherlands. The lush green hills rolled into the distance, peppered with modernist structures that shimmered under the Iberian sun. The stark contrast between Bilbao’s modern architecture and its natural backdrop was breathtaking.
Stepping off the plane, the air was heavy with the scent of salt from the nearby Bay of Biscay and a subtle undercurrent of smoky grilled seafood. As an American expat who had been comfortably nestled in Amsterdam’s cycling culture, the vibrancy and vehemence of Bilbao were immediately arresting.
Modern Architectural Marvels
One cannot speak of Bilbao without paying homage to the Guggenheim Museum, a piece of architecture that’s as much art as the treasures it houses inside. Designed by Frank Gehry, its titanium-clad form is reminiscent of a ship, nodding to Bilbao’s maritime heritage. I stood in front of it, the sun catching the metallic waves of the building, feeling like a kid about to enter a fantastical realm.
Beyond the Guggenheim, the city was an eclectic mix of the avant-garde and the ancient. The Zubizuri footbridge, designed by Santiago Calatrava, looked like a piece of sculpted glass over the Nervión river. In contrast, the historic Casco Viejo, the old town, with its narrow alleyways and traditional Basque houses, offered a glimpse into the city’s past.
Delving into Basque Culture
Being from the States and having acclimated to Dutch pragmatism in Amsterdam, the fervor of Basque culture was both a shock and a delight. There’s an undeniable pride in the Basque heritage. I was fortunate to witness an Euskal Jaiak (Basque festival), where the streets came alive with traditional music, dance, and, most prominently, the rhythmic sounds of the txalaparta, a traditional Basque musical instrument.
The Basque language, Euskara, further intrigued me. Unlike any other European language, its origins remain a mystery. Street signs and overheard conversations became puzzles to decode, adding to the region’s enigmatic charm.
A Culinary Expedition
Bilbao isn’t just a feast for the eyes. The Basque culinary scene had my taste buds dancing with joy. Venturing into the city’s numerous pintxos bars was a nightly ritual. Pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, are bite-sized delights ranging from fresh seafood to intricately crafted mini sandwiches. Every bar presented its unique creations, and the unwritten rule was clear: hop from one bar to another, trying a pintxo and a drink at each.
One memorable experience was at a traditional asador, where I tasted the region’s famed grilled seafood and Txuleta, a massive bone-in steak, charred to perfection. Paired with a glass of the local txakoli wine, it was a meal fit for royalty.
Reflections Amidst Change
As days turned into nights and nights into days, Bilbao unveiled its layers. One evening, as I sat by the river, the city’s lights reflecting off the water, I pondered my journey as an American expat. From the vastness of the US to the bicycles of Amsterdam and now the rolling hills of Bilbao, every place brought lessons, challenges, and moments to cherish.
Bilbao, with its juxtaposition of the old and new, mirrored my own journey. Embracing the new while cherishing the old. Finding the modern within the traditional and discovering tradition in modernity.
Final Thoughts
My trip to Bilbao was more than a vacation. It was an immersion into a culture rich in history yet constantly evolving. As I packed my bags, the city’s art, architecture, and culinary wonders securely etched in memory, I carried with me the spirit of the Basque Country. A spirit of resilience, pride, and a passion for life.
Returning to the bustling streets of Amsterdam, I brought back more than souvenirs. I returned with stories, flavors, and a renewed appreciation for the world’s vast and varied tapestry. A tapestry I’m fortunate to traverse, one city at a time.
